Few joys in life compare to receiving a surprise late afternoon phone call asking if I’d like to get my hands on the two new models from the Seiko Marinemaster line. My answer, of course, was a swift and enthusiastic yes while doing a little "I like to move it, move it" happy dance.
With so many variants, reissues, and special editions, navigating Seiko divers catalog can be overwhelming. However, within that catalog, the Marinemaster line stands out as the diving watch of the brand — the flagship model.
When I opened the box and held the watches, I admit feeling a bit surprised.
The first mechanical Seiko to bear the Marinemaster name, the SBDX001, was launched in 2000 as the successor of the Professional models from the late '60s. It established the aesthetic codes forever associated with Seiko professional divers watches – powerful looks, big size, monobloc cases and the crown at 4 o'clock.
Over time the Marinemaster designation on the dial changed since the collection inherits it's spirit from the professional line and so the Marinemaster gave place to the Prospex Professional 300M naming as we can see on the 2018 Seiko Prospex SLA019 for example.
Out of curiosity, by the same time, the Seiko 300 SBDX017 still holding the Marinemaster on the dial was discontinued.
While holding too much to a concept now in place through another collection (the Prospex Professional 300M) I was failing to see how much has changed since Seiko brought back the Marinemaster name in 2023. The new slimmed down models are a whole new game.
I was holding a 39.5mm watch featuring two novelties, the slimmer case to date (12,3mm) and for the fist time a display case back! On top of it all it bears the Marinemaster name on the dial.
Well, lights, camera, action and let's discover these gentleman for what they are freed from my own erroneous mindset.
As always, the bracelets are fantastic — both in finishing and for the organic articulation on the wrist, offering a triple deployant clasp with safety button and extender.
Another strong point of these watches are the dials. The variable thicknesses linear pattern adds a textural effect that shifts in intensity depending on the light angle while the sapphire crystal and internal anti-reflective coating ensure excellent legibility.
Photographing these dials was truly "finger-licking good!"
I started with the version featuring a grey dial and bezel with a black metallic insert. I honestly hope that by sharing real experiences from having the watches in hand and seen through the lens, I can offer something extra to those reading.
That's because, for the life of me, I can’t quite pin down the exact color of the SJE117J1 dial!
"Oh, but aren’t you a watch photographer?!"
I am, but it’s one of those things — new techniques, new colours, new finishings makes it increasingly hard to establish with certainty certain colours. There’s always the visual idealization of the watch and that’s the image used in marketing but real life is often quite different.
Between the controlled environment in the studio or under natural light, I focus less on technical perfection and more on balancing the visual appeal of a beautiful image with the inherent honesty of the photographic medium, even so, it was easy to conclude that the SJE117J1 is a little chameleon delivering blue reflections, grey tones or even muted greens.
This model doesn’t have just one face, it has several and they all are beautiful. The black bezel insert, which initially struck me as a somewhat "easy" design choice, turned out to be a perfect match for this chameleonic dial. I stand corrected!
As for the SJE119J1 model with a blue dial and metallic blue bezel insert one thing immediately stands out and Seiko does this very well across many models, even in the lower ranges. The blue metallic insert is gorgeous in any light — bright and vibrant, it transitions through a gradient from pure metallic blue to deep black. A delightful detail.
It also features a gradient dial from black to blue shifting direction depending on the light.
While taking the shots on the wrist I felt these were indeed 39.5mm of pure class and practicality — a faithful and discreet companion for terrestrial and maritime adventures, and who knows, maybe even formal situations.
These models are powered by the Caliber 6L37 with 28,800 vibrations per hour. The proprietary SPRON alloy used in the mainspring and the equally proprietary Diashock anti-shock system are two examples of the brand’s historical know-how put into this caliber, redesigned to be the thinnest in Seiko’s lineup and to endure extra rough use while keeping a +15 to -10 seconds a day average performance.
So, let’s get to the conclusion with a always healthy dose of reality.
If we all had an euro for every time we read or hear that Seiko offers the "best quality/price ratio on the market" we’d be top shareholders of the brand! Pun intended.
I'm also guilty of doing it but to what extent does that statement holds?
It’s undoubtedly true across a broad range of prices but what about when looking at the flagship models like the Marinemaster? After all they retail at 3.600 euros, a rather unusual price point for the brand.
I feel that these Marinemasters are a statement that the brand is much more than the eternal subject of quality/price comparison with others. Seiko is just doing what they do better then most – a top divers watch.
The Seiko Marinemasters aren't meant to be compared; they are first and foremost to be appreciated for what they are.
Fantastic watches both under the lens and on the wrist.
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SEIKO MARINEMASTER
Ref: SJE117J1 (Grey dial)
Ref: SJE119J1 (Blue dial)
Caliber 6L37, automatic, Ø 39.5 mm, steel case, sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating on inner surface, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 45 hours of power reserve.
3.600 €
