Back in 2014 if memory serves me right, but it almost never does, I was faced with a decision; after a decade of daily contact with high-end watchmaking I felt it was time to buy my first mechanical watch or a watch of any kind for that matter, as wearing one was not part of my daily habits.
I wanted it to be a diver. I also wanted it to display only hours, minutes and central seconds. No chronos, no Alfa Centauri orbital calculation scale. I wouldn't mind both date or no date indication as long as I liked the watch visually.
Metal or rubber strap was mandatory and finally it had to be reliable and robust for daily wear since I'm not exactly the most careful person in the world and my cameras can attest for that.
So, I set out on the information highway (that's what the internet was called back in 2014) and it wasn't surprising that the Seiko SKX reference kept coming up in my searches.
I read everything, the good and the less good. I weighed the pros and cons and eventually bought the famous SKX007.
A simple, carefree, robust watch, zero problems since day one, always reliable, waterproof to 200 meters, screw-down crown, compliant with the ISO 6425 standard for diving watches, Seiko shock protection system, patented Seiko Hardlex crystal, Seiko's own movement with Seiko's magic lever system.
In short, a watch that is much more than its price tag and through years of faithful performance has won me over.
A Turtle PADI soon followed, then a Monster. The performance of these three watches is, to this day, excellent! Sand, water, dust, bangs, I repeat, I have zero complaints about my Seikos, on the contrary, only praises.
Moving on.
Seiko is a brand always under my radar and a few weeks ago I casually saw an image of the new SPB455J1 and sighed. I wanted to have one, to care and protect it from the evils of the world! It was love at first sight.
Thanks to Seiko I was sent not only that grey/golden beauty but also its siblings, the SPB453J1 featuring a black dial and the SPB451J1 featuring a blue one, for a photo session.
These are 40mm of excellent construction and finishing powered by a perfectly competent movement, the Seiko 6R55, an evolution of the 6R35 with a longer power reserve.
The updated design from the SPB147 version includes a slimmer case, 13.2mm to 13mm, a smaller diameter, 40,5mm to 40mm and also overall shorter, 47,6mm to 46,4mm. Water resistance was improved from 200 to 300 meters and the date moved from the 3 o'clock position to between 4 and 5 o'clock.
Small/great details like the sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside allows excellent readability, the excellent clasp with a reinforced protection system with the usual possibility of micro-adjustment, the textured and easy-to-handle crown and firm and precise clicks on the fine "microbillé" finished bezel, reveal that these pieces are a clearly a step above my trio.
The high attachment points for the bracelet create a visual sensation of integration but intelligently articulated to adapt better to various types of wrists. I prefer large watches, being the smallest I have 42.5mm yet, the 40mm of these three SPB45 models, aided, I repeat, by the beautiful steel bracelet contrasting elegantly with the color scheme of the dials and bezel, wear very well on smaller or larger wrists.
If at first the grey/golden caught my eye the other variations grew on me during the time I spent with the watches, especially the black dial version. Any of the three will make a great adventure buddy or an urban daily companion.
The unavoidable question: the price. These watches come with a price tag of 1550 euros for the black and blue dial versions and 1750 euros for the one I like to call grey/golden.
Noses might wrinkle and brows might furrow; the plethora of alternatives on the market, whether from established brands, micro or independent ones, bring other players into the game expanding the range of options for the consumer, who clearly benefits. However, I can't think of man that can rival with what Seiko brings to the table through these models and throughout other price ranges.
This was not a review but the words of someone who has been wearing Seiko for a long time and also photographed dozens of their watches under a macro lens. Seiko keeps on delivering reliable, robust and well built watches.
Seiko Brand 100th Anniversary 1965 Heritage Diver's Watch Special Edition
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SPB455J1 (Grey dial - also comes with a grey textile strap made from recycled plastic) + info
SPB453J1 (Black dial) + info
SPB 451J1 (Blue dial) + info
Automatic, 40 mm, steel, Caliber 6R55, aprox. 72 of power reserve, curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside. Screw-down crown, three-fold clasp with secure lock and extender. Screw case back. Water resistance of 300 meters.